What is shoe last type shoe last chart

What is a Shoe Last?

Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About Footwear Lasts

Shoe Last Function and Fashion

The shoe last is the starting point of every shoe design and has been called “the heart of the shoe.” The last is the center of the entire shoemaking process, in which the shoemaker starts with the last and then builds the shoe out from there.

The shape of the last determines the fit, performance, ergonomics, and style of a shoe, and is also what makes a shoe suitable for playing basketball, climbing mountains, or running a marathon. Great looking shoe design is nothing if the last is not appropriate for the shoe’s function.

The Shoe Last

The last is a roughly foot-shaped form made of molded plastic, carved wood, cast aluminum, or 3D printed plastic. Why is the last called the last? The word ‘last’ comes from the old English word ‘laest,’ which means ‘footprint.’ The first shoe lasts were used by the Greeks and Romans all the way back to 400 BCE!

Throughout all of this time, the last has been critical to the shape and fit of a shoe. The last is used in all phases of the shoemaking process and sets the size, silhouette, and outline of the shoe. The last plays a central role for the entire production of the shoe all the way from the design phase, through the development process, and onto the production assembly line.


How the Shoe Last is Used in the Design Phase

The shoe designer will often draw a new design directly onto the surface of a last or draw the design on paper using the 2D last silhouette as a guide. The shoe designer must follow the outline shape of the last bottom to draw an accurate outsole design.

The modern shoe last is not a replica of the human foot. The shoe last is a generalization of the human foot with care taken to account for natural articulation and volumetric changes as the foot moves and flexes. A high quality running or walking shoe will have a thoughtfully developed last. A large shoe brand will have the help of shoemakers, podiatrists, and kinesiologists to develop biomechanically ideal shapes.

Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About Footwear Lasts

Shoe Last Function and Fashion

The shoe last is the starting point of every shoe design and has been called “the heart of the shoe.” The last is the center of the entire shoemaking process, in which the shoemaker starts with the last and then builds the shoe out from there.

The shape of the last determines the fit, performance, ergonomics, and style of a shoe, and is also what makes a shoe suitable for playing basketball, climbing mountains, or running a marathon. Great looking shoe design is nothing if the last is not appropriate for the shoe’s function.

The Shoe Last

The last is a roughly foot-shaped form made of molded plastic, carved wood, cast aluminum, or 3D printed plastic. Why is the last called the last? The word ‘last’ comes from the old English word ‘laest,’ which means ‘footprint.’ The first shoe lasts were used by the Greeks and Romans all the way back to 400 BCE!

Throughout all of this time, the last has been critical to the shape and fit of a shoe. The last is used in all phases of the shoemaking process and sets the size, silhouette, and outline of the shoe. The last plays a central role for the entire production of the shoe all the way from the design phase, through the development process, and onto the production assembly line.


How the Shoe Last is Used in the Design Phase

The shoe designer will often draw a new design directly onto the surface of a last or draw the design on paper using the 2D last silhouette as a guide. The shoe designer must follow the outline shape of the last bottom to draw an accurate outsole design.

The modern shoe last is not a replica of the human foot. The shoe last is a generalization of the human foot with care taken to account for natural articulation and volumetric changes as the foot moves and flexes. A high quality running or walking shoe will have a thoughtfully developed last. A large shoe brand will have the help of shoemakers, podiatrists, and kinesiologists to develop biomechanically ideal shapes.

Learn More About Shoe Lasts 

Footwear Pattern Pattern Cutting: Step by Step Patterns for Footwear

Footwear Pattern Making and Last Design will show you how lasts are made, the shoe last design process, the hidden geometry, special features, functions, and size grading principles of lasts.

You will see many different last designs and shapes for sneakers, trainers, high-heels, boots, and more.
200 pages, 11 Chapters, over 500 color photos.
Download Now!